How do you align your sight and aim?

It's a subconscious thing. But they make a huge difference.

I recently asked this questions, 

Do you align the sight and target by 

- Looking at the sight pin then putting it on the target or 

- Looking at the target, then putting the sight pin into it

Do you aim by 

- Keep red dot in the middle of the target or

- Align circumference of the sight forming around the target ring"

These are subconscious routines we build since we start shooting, and we barely revisit them. 2 vastly different methods, also with vastly different results.

It is normal for new archers to use the first method to both questions. It is just normal, and it just happens. No one actually teaches us how to align and aim when we go for one of those fun shoots.

Personally, I use the 2nd option for both questions. Here are the reasons for it. 

Take note that these varies according to shooting style and are ultimately personal preferences to help you shoot better. So try them for a month and see which works better!

Alignment: 

When you keep your eye on the target and put the sight pin into it, you keep your focus on the target.

Compared to when your eye follows the sight into the target. This makes it more difficult to align as your vision moves along with your sight pin.

With the focus on the target, you can use peripheral vision to check where the sight pin is and adjust your aiming as required. Essentially, you minimize movement and transition time from setting up to aim.

To note, some archers keep their sight pin at the black / blue rings at 12 oclock while drawing. This reduces unnecessary movements even more, and reduces the time needed to aim and expand

Aiming:

I used to aim with the middle dot. I got a fiber optic sight pin just for this purpose. But after 2 years, I realised that doing this will make me want to have the "perfect aim" before releasing the arrow. Resulting in taking too long to expand and click, or not wanting to expand because it will not be a perfect shot. There was so much focus on aiming that I forget about engaging the good muscles while shooting. (This, if too severe drastic, may lead to clicker or target panic.) This subconsciously stuck with me for 2 years. Even now, I have to remind myself to focus on me shooting, not the target. 

So how do I aim? I get the pin into the target, then try to have a nice "sight picture", seeing that the yellow mostly fills the sight. In essence, see if the colours on the target make a nice circle. Then I tell myself.. "Easy and relaxed expansion and release"

There will never be a perfect aim, and I have accepted this fact. Have you?

I found that the Spigarelli Berti Light sight pin helps me greatly in achieving this. (Not a sponsored post, but some factors for you to consider). The circumference of the shibuya round sight pin is too thin for my liking and I found it difficult to tell where the pin is on the target. The Berti Light on the other hand, is square, with an opaque side facing me. 

- This helps me to see the sight ring better and identify if I my aim is off 

- The cross hairs are so fine that they can barely be seen while aiming, giving me a very nice sight picture.

- The straight vertical side helps me get a good gauge of my string alignment with reference to the sight pin

- The center dot is luminous red, which is really bright. (not the most important), but it helps me get a rough sensing of how 'centre' I am. Though I am still aiming with the sight picture.

I am an advocate for "rough aiming" so that we can bring the focus back to us. 

Execute good shots, not perfect aim

Fivics Titan EX Riser

Got a chance to see the Fivics Titan EX riser at Bangkok World Indoors. Wasn't a chance to shoot it, but a good time to draw and feel the riser. The main difference between the EX and X2 risers are in the weight and the weight balance

Weight:
EX is at 1330g, can definitely feel the difference compared to the X2 at 1315g. The feel of the riser is definitely heavier and bulkier.

Weight balance and Grip:
Can't comment on the weight balance
But the grip felt much better to use. The staff explained that the neck of the grip follows the bow centre and is geometric to maximise the control of the bow
Also, the outer left side (RH) of the grip has been extended slightly out for the archer to quickly find and get a good contact point with the bow. Of course, this difference could be felt when I switched back to the X2 :/ (feeling insecure with my X2 now)

Archery Clickers

I also have a habit of changing equipment, especially smaller accessories like clicker :/

Have changed 4 clickers so far,

Beiter silver -> Beiter black -> ArcTec Carbon -> Wiawis Carbon

In terms of price, carbon clickers are definitely more expensive. Wiawis set me back S$33 while the ArcTec costs $42.

I shall not talk too much about Beiter blades as they are the most common and popular, even among Olympians and Korean archers. They're simple, light and does the job perfectly well.

Carbon clickers, if you are dissatisfied with the clicking sound of the Beiter ones, would be producing music to your ears. 

What I would want to compare is the ArcTec and Wiawis.

In terms of force it generates when it clicks, the ArcTec would be slightly less forceful. At the highest hole, the clicker doesn't really touch the clicking plate. Second hole is great.

Wiawis clicker is naturally curved, so it would touch the plate regardless.

It also spots a 'slider' concept rather than the 4-hole concept. No need to change from hole to hole to adjust the lengths, just slide it up and down.

The main difference is at the end of the blade, which comes into contact with the clicking plate. 

ArcTec's is a piece of brass while the Wiawis is a normal metal plate. Don't belittle the brass. It is the one which gives the really amazing click sound. The word I would describe it with is "SOLID". Really solid click (youtube has a video of the ArcTec clicking sound vs the old win carbon clicker).

But, because of the brass, I also find it difficult to adjust the clicker position as it is rounded. From different angles, it seems like it is on a different position on the clicker plate.

Also, if the anchor is not stable and the arrow moves forward and back near the clicking point, the clicker might move. Very difficult to find the 'feel' of when it is going to click.

It is also difficult to fully tighten the screw as the allen key is required. After a couple of shots, it might move. I actually use my beiter screw to keep it tight instead.

The wiawis clicker on the other hand, does not sound as good. Could not get used to the sound at all. Sounds a bit more 'flat'. But because it is a flat surface, it is much easier to get the 'feel' and adjust the clicker position.

Also, because it is narrower, I am extremely afraid that it is quite flimsy and might snap.. Hopefully it doesn't.

 I screwed it on the riser tight and it stayed in place quite well.

My friend and I both sold the ArcTec clicker and changed to Wiawis :)

Archery Plungers

Recently I've ordered 2 Infitec Nexus plungers for friends. The moment I touched it, I regretted.. The plunger pin does not go in and out smoothly. Feels like sandpaper.. And it costs S$35. Even Cartel plungers which cost way less feel smoother than that.

Today I would like to share about the Fivics SM740 vs Beiter Plunger.

Similarities
Both these plungers are very similar in the sense they allow micro-tuning and adjustments of the plunger tension. They are both about the same lengths.
Both are extremely smooth when using.
The concepts for both are the same for securing onto the riser and for micro tuning.




+ SM740
Just 1 tool required to tune. The blue spanner and the small allen key attached to it. Beiter requires a couple more tools like the screw driver.
The micro-tuning adjustment is independent adjustment from the body of the entire plunger. (when turning micro adjustment, entire body does not turn). Essentially, it pushes a platform at the back of the plunger forward or backward. The adjustment level can be seen through a window at the side of the plunger. Beiter works in a similar manner, except that the entire body turns.

+ Beiter
Very inter-changeable and easily available parts. Multiple plunger pin lengths to suit your riser and shooting needs. SM740 spare parts do not come easily but other than the plunger pin, some parts can be inter-used.
The spring is actually really good, compared to the SM740 spring. The SM740 spring increases tension exponentially upon being depressed.
The sheer number of Olympians can attest to the goodness of this plunger. Most likely because there is zero or extremely low tolerance in the plunger pin movement. It only moves in and out, and no left/ right around the opening.

+ SM540
Similar to SM740, just 1 tool required. Same method of attaching onto the riser
The adjustment method is similar to Beiter. The whole body of the plunger turns.
(but I still prefer to use the beiter spring in the plunger)


Price (in SGD)
Fivics: 80+
Beiter: 160+

What do I do..?
I am using the SM740 (or 540) because I like the way it can be micro-tuned and the gauge can be seen through the window.
I dislike the Fivics spring because the tension increases wayyy to much upon being pushed down.
Use the SM740 plunger with the Beiter spring. :)

Thankfully the springs are of the same size and quite interchangeable.
Plunger pins are not
Grub screws are the same
Spanners are not of the same size

Thinking of changing Limbs..

Looking to change to my own long term high poundage limbs.. Currently using a friend's Inno EX Power 68" 38#. Thinking of..

- Titan x2
- Inno EX Power
- Wiawis NS
- Wiawis One
- MK?

Fivics Titan x2 riser

Gotten around to changing a riser. The new Fivics Titan X2! Here's some info and my thoughts abt it

Design: it's design looks extremely close to GMX and MKX 10. 

The riser design is exactly the same as the previous Titan plus.

The difference: the grip and the little damper at the bottom of the grip.

Titan X2 in its natural habitat

Fixing up the riser with the accessories

Pluses and minuses

Grip: changed from the glossy low wrist on Titan+ to a mid grip matte finish. The feel is great. I absolutely love the comfort of it. Do try it out for yourself first though, as I have small hands. The mid grip fits my hands just right, like a natural hand-wrist position.

Comparing to the wiawis nano max, it feels smaller. I could never get a proper grip when trying out my friend's bow. Or maybe my hand was wet and couldnt grip properly. The Titan grip is still white though (which is sad). 

The surface:

It has that textured look like it just came out from production and it looks just great. At least it has some feels compared to a painted bow.

Finally, the shooting feel:

To be honest. It feels amazing. Fivics say it's 1315g weight. The old winex is 1250g. But the Titan x2 feels much lighter when drawing and anchoring.

With the winex, it felt like carrying a block of metal. It's chunky, and oomph-ey. Like a drumstick you eat using your hands and take a giant bite into it. 

The x2 itself feels and looks streamlined with less edges and more curves. It feels elegant and poised. Like the perfectly glazed chicken wing that just came out from the grill. (Crap I'm hungry..) Gives the satisfaction and yearning to come back for more. Just like how I can't wait to go back to shooting it again.

It is probably because the balance is toward the front. Which is why the shooting feel is so different. It feels light, but packs a huge punch. After release, it just jumps out so spontaneously.

Hope I can say more, after a few more weeks of shooting

Fivics Nano-XQ

---26 Jan---
Hello!! With the up in poundage also comes an upgrade in arrows. Plus the fact that I'll be shooting 50m in a competition soon. Coach just shipped in Fivics NANO-XQ arrows.

From some snooping around the websites, it looks like Carbon Express produces arrows for Fivics too. Especially since the Nano-XR and Nano-Pro on the Fivics Archery online shop looks exactly the same as the ones on the CX website.
Now the Fivics 2016 catalogue has the XQs listed, together with ZEILOs and other beginner arrows. The XRs and Pros are nowhere to be seen. So it does seem like the feedback from XRs and Pros have gone into the XQs and these are the go-to arrows now.
The claim is that these arrows are just below X10s. They are also claimed to be much more durable, much faster and much more stable than the A/C/G, definitely comparable to A/C/E.
Price wise, its likely around A/C/E range.

Made a visual comparison to my friend's X10s. The X10s are designed to have wider shaft and narrower ends. The XQs width are definitely comparable to the X10s. Widths of the X10s in the middle are just slightly wider than the XQs, while the ends are about the same size or narrower.

I guess the only way to find out is to shoot them. Stay tuned!

---14 July---
Received an email from a reader who wanted to find out more about the NANO-XQ. Thanks for contacting me! He has been using the NANO-XR for 3 years and is looking to upgrade. I'm no expert to comment, but here's my reply based on my what I went through with the arrows. If you're looking for a definitive reply as to buy or not buy, you'll likely not find it here...

I have been using them since January till now. Twice a week, about 100-200 arrows each time.

I have completed with them at 50m in March and 18m in June with 36# limbs, and recently changed to 38# limbs in June.

In March for the 50m competition, my form wasn't very good and the scores reflected it. But what is great is that they could hit consistent 7-10 points during the competition. When I did not shoot properly and my form was bad, they would land at 2-6 points.

In June for the 18m competition, my form was more consistent. The arrows performed perfectly. I could get 9-10 points consistently on the triple face.

After switching to 38#, the spine is a bit soft for 38#. I will have to change another set of arrows for 38#.

The last week was quite a bad experience for my arrows. On Wednesday, I was shooting at 26m indoor range. One arrow dropped off the arrow rest just before releasing and it hit the wall at 45 degree angle. There was a hole in the wall about an inch deep, buy thankfully the arrow was fine.

On Saturday at the outdoor range, 2 arrows dropped off the arrow rest again and they flew into the grass. Again, thankfully they only got scratched on the surface and should be able to use after cleaning it up. (Actually, I haven't cleaned them up)

They seem very durable and able to withstand a lot of rough treatment.

As for arrow speed, I can't tell because I don't have any arrows to compare to. But I believe it is also faster than many Easton arrows because it is much thinner.

I have a friend who uses NANO-XR as well. The XQ and XR are of the same size. They look and feel exactly the same. It is likely just the manufacturing process that is different, in terms of the pressure applied to make the arrow (they keep emphasizing this on their product brochure).

If you are satisfied with your NANO-XR, I'm sure the NANO-XQ will not disappoint you

Remember I mentioned changing to another set of stiffer arrows? It will definitely be to NANO-XQ

Best to order the point and pin with the arrows because it's fivics size. Shops may not have the same size for point and pin

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Let me know if this helped!
Feel free to contact me at buzytmj@gmail.com!

KAP Winstorm II - is it really twisted??

Hello, the previous post is too long and has too many 'adds'. So decided to make another one.
This is a more of a 'heads up' than a confirmed update as the information still has to be verified.

So after trying to tune my bow many times, I start to wonder if the limb is really at fault. So I tried 2 other sets of limbs on the riser. Seems like the same effect is happening. When the bow is perfectly tuned, the top limb seems twisted. So maybe.. it's' not the limb's fault but the riser's fault.

In order to know, I will let my friends use my limbs when its their time to upgrade. We'll find out soon enough. Or.. You could email me and I could let you try! Totally fine with that, especially now that I've upped poundage and changed limbs.

-more to come--
So someone checked my bow and has confirmed that its bent. So, what next..?







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Let me know if this helped!
Feel free to contact me at buzytmj@gmail.com!

Information Systems vs Computer Science vs Computer Engineering

I've come across friends who are considering studying something related to computers after their JC times. Yes, this post is for Singapore post-JC students, who wish to know more about the difference between the 3. It's just to distinguish the 3, and not to tell you about what prospects and what future there is in these areas.

A little more about myself: I'm studying information systems in a university in Singapore. And I had the same question too. Thankfully my mum had the answer.
I'm gonna quote the descriptions of some website as well, and try to make this as un-technical as possible.
I may not be 100% correct, so please be critical and do your own research as well.

Computer Engineering:
Apply knowledge of mathematics, science and engineering to the solution of complex engineering problem (CEG NUS, 2015). 
So if I interpret it correctly, the focus is on engineering. Materials, design, hardware.
Certain diode is better cause it has lesser resistance, certain design is better as it is more energy efficient.
Totally necessary considering the size of hardware (hard disk, thumb drive, laptops)

Now comes the more challenging part

Computer Science vs Information Systems
Computer Science (CS) is the study of the principles of computing and how computers solve problems. ... Abstract ideas that rely on fundamental mathematical theories are the basis of Computer Science. (Carnegie Mellon University Qatar)
Information Systems (IS) is the study of what technology/tools can best meet the Information management needs of a particular organization. These tools can be human, process-based or technological. (Carnegie Mellon University Qatar)

If I were to put it, creation vs application.
CS revolves around creating codes and applications for a certain big thing. The big things nowadays are data analytics, artificial intelligence,
IS revolves around using technology and applying it into the business' requirements. 2 simple examples
1. Development of an online shopping website, inclusive of browsing to checkout and delivery
2. The leave taking system in army? Information systems.

But the lines seem blurry nowadays.
Hope this helps!

Write to me at buzytmj@gmail.com!

NUS Computer Engineering website http://www.ceg.nus.edu.sg/about/SLOs.html
CMU https://www.qatar.cmu.edu/30/ISCS

Kayaking equipment

I started Kayaking first, about 2 years ago. Before going into Archery when school started. So I've got a list of kayaking equipment too. By now you would have realised that the sports I join are all very expensive :/

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ONNO full tour, 203-213cm, Received on Jan 2013
Speaking to Patrick was a very good experience.

Physical appearance
The paddle itself, it was my mistake to get a 203-213 as it is an expedition paddle and the length is toooo short. My recommendation is 210-220.
The paddle is full carbon signature, as Patrick calls it. Full carbon shaft, and mixture of carbon and fibreglass blades. He assisted to re-enforce the tips upon request.
The outlook isn't refined and poised as many other paddles around. It looks rough and rugged. But for me, what matters is it works.
It is the lightest around, as the shaft is hollow. Additionally, his ferrule allows adjustments of up to 10cm. The only downside is the difficulty in splitting them apart after a tiring day of paddling. Also, the blades may seem very flimsy.

Performance
It is a very good TOURING paddle, extremely recommended for low angle use, up to 45 degrees.
Its large face makes it difficult for quick successive strokes. Slow relaxed strokes recommended.
The dihedral face makes for a very good catch. From the start to the end of the stroke, its seems inseparable from the water. I like this as it forces me to rotate my torso for a longer stroke backwards to recover the blade. However, many of my friends don't like this. So take note, this blade design requires a very long stroke.
Mentioned above is the flimsiness. But do not be fooled. In the water, there is zero flutter, zero vibration, zero sideway movement. It feels firm as hell. I say again, the blades are thin and look flimsy when you shake it on land. But in water, it is like concrete.

Overall
Price is reasonable for a paddle made to order, and specifically made to your requests. Good for relaxing days, don't think about racing with this FULL TOUR MODEL. Only inconvenience is taking apart the 2pc paddle.
Can't and won't comment about the other paddles he makes. Though they look very good on his website.

Comparing
I have tried others' Werner ikelos and shuna. Honestly, I'd prefer the werners as the ONNO requires quite a bit of strength to pull. Only thing is the weight. ONNO is the lightest ever cause of the hollow shaft.

pictures when i feel like taking them
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Astral Greenjacket (GJ) PFD 2014 edition, blue
The most comfortable PFD I've ever worn. Very good, low profile. Very buoyant. Very maneuverable in it.

Comparing
to the Stohlquist descent: The descent has a higher buoyancy. But, also a fatter profile. Wearing the descent, i can't put my arms straight down my waist to the thighs as it is HUGE. The GJ on the other hand, due to the lower profile, is more comfortable in this aspect. Plus, the GJ splits its front floatation into 2 pieces, while the descent is all in 1 chunk.
GJ's pockets wise, yes the clamshell is quite large. But, the 2 side ones are pfft. I haven't found any safety equipment able to fit inside. Usually the carabiner takes up the whole space.Mostly because it is on the foam which is rounded.

to the OLD peakuk river guide: the GJ looks so much more sturdy. The riverguide's neoprene sides can get worn out after a lot of torture. And they more often than not, get uncomfortable when adjusting the sides, The river guide's profile is much nicer though.

to the NEW peakuk river guide: The new riverguide is extremely difficult to adjust.
I adjust my vest in this manner. Waist + chest -> hip -> shoulders. (read on to listen to my rambling)
1. The shoulder adjustments are inhibited by the shoulderpads. Yes, the shoulderpads are nice and comfortable, but you'll have to remove the velcro before adjusting the length of the shoulder strap. Which by the way is much more complex than just pulling forward because of the way it is put into the buckle. So there is NO WAY I was able to adjust the shoulder strap length while wearing the vest.
2. Ok great, the vest got over my head. Let me adjust the side straps. Oh wait, I can't find them??!! Peakuk has built them on the inside. That is a very good idea for keeping the straps out of the way, especially since it is a type V vest. But hey, there is no more dual-adjusting. It is a single strap going from the back to the front, then back again to emerge in front in a Z shape. Prefer your vest to be tight? Well, remember that your hand has to go between you and the vest to reach for the side straps?
3. Buckles at the bottom are the same as the old one
The zip compartments are plenty, but mostly to carry rescue equipment, or some small snacks. The zips openings are very tight and not able to stretch.

However, I do have to credit the comfort and profile after the difficult adjustments. Very low profile, does not hinder movements of the arms or torso.


How Astral does it is quite ingenious. They wrap foam around the sides as well. This gives support to the waist, which is honestly, very comfortable. Descent does it exaggeratedly, hence the discomfort i feel. Plus, the descent has a neoprene side. Yes just 1 side. The other side is the zipper.

Overall
The GJ is expensive. But it is a very good PFD to wear. Comfort is A+, materials used are durable. Fit is very good with the 8 adjustment points. Only downside is the excess at the adjustments. And pullover design if anyone hates it.
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Bombergear k-bomb spray skirt

I have never been so impressed. The workmanship is totally 'bombproof', as they term themselves. Seem indestructable. The only water that goes in is those from my shirt. The rest is flawless. What more do i have to say. Everyone in my club owns one of this.
Price is a factor though. Close to 300SGD.
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Let me know if this helped!
Feel free to contact me at buzytmj@gmail.com!

New BCY-X string, how many strands to use? & Angel

Well, I just burnt the serving of my 22-strand recurve BCY-X string, so I'll have the unfortunate opportunity of getting the 20 strand to see if it fits better. The 22 strand is quite tight for my Easton platinum 1716 arrows with a normal nock (should be #1 easton). I have 2 other strings, not sure what material. Probably around the Dacron / 8125 region. But one is 18 strand while another is 16.

Wait for a week to see if the 20 strand is a good size.
**update**
16 strand string was on the verge of dropping. A large move and the arrow falls off.
18 strand provided a good hold. A tap did the trick.
Yes! The 20 strand is just slightly tight on the arrow, but is much better than the 22 strand.
The net says that the arrow should fall off the string with a gentle tap on the string. Mine was a not-so-gentle tap, but it still fell off!! So I'll just go with it :)

Btw, the with the BCY-X string made by Avalon tec-one, it looks soooooooooo good with my black winex, and black KAP Winstorm II. Together with red stabs and red sight, it'll be the nicest setup I've ever seen. For pictures, refer to post on Winstorm II review


-Add 19 Sep, 2015-
So I've started to play around with string making, cause I found a string making jig and a spool of Astro Flight string lying around. So a friend and I bought a serving jig, angel majestic pro string and angel majestic serving to try making our own string.

Research tells me that for Astro Flight and Angel Majestic, 16 strands is a good number for 32# and above. If you're pulling less than 30#, you can probably do 14 strands as well.
Serving diameter: we bought the 0.021" diameter but it is too thick for my platinum arrows' G-nocks, for both 14 and 16 strands. So I'll be getting 0.018" for the center servings while 0.021" for end loops.

In summary

Nock size 1, I would use the same Angel configuration for poundage up to 44#

32-36#	bcyx	Angel Majestic	Astro Flight
strand count	18	16	14
serving size	0.021"	0.021"	0.021"

--Add 26 Jan, 2016-- On the line between think and thin
Based on my G-nock and my friends' G-nock, we have different preferences in terms of serving width and string strand count.
1) Astroflight 16 strands & 0.021" center serving
Me: Initially tight. After using, the nocking area gets thinner. Alright for use, but still too tight to my liking
Friend: Prefers this set up as the arrow wont fall off too easily. In case of accidental touches

2) Angel 16 strands & 0.018" center serving
Me: Perfect. Comes off easily yet not too susceptible to gentle touches
Friend: Too lose. His fingers shifted when hooking the arrow and felt that he might accidentally dry fire

--Add 24 Feb, 2016--
Thickness update of Astro Flight & Angel Majes Pro.
16 strands of both Astro Flight and Angel was made with Angel serving (0.018" diameter).
AFs are much THICKER than Angel. The Angel was just nice (or just slightly thicker) for my carbon express arrows, pin nocks

Extensions:
The Astro extended within shooting 50 arrows, my brace height decreased just 2mm. Did not extend some more
The Angel seemed to extend non-stop. Only till about 200-300 arrows later did it stop extending. Brace height dropped by like 8mm. Suggestion if you're making your own Angel Majes Pro. Make your string just 5mm longer than the required length when its strung up. (I made 64"). Able to do 20-25 twists on the string. When it extends again, should go back to your expected brace height

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Let me know if this helped!
Feel free to contact me at buzytmj@gmail.com!

Second post: On KAP winstorm II archery recurve limbs review

I have included a very crucial review on the limbs in another later post. Please refer to that as well.

No reviews on the net for the new KAP Winstorm II recurve limbs after W&W started the KAP line again. So I'm here to do mine

Fun fact: KAP line restarted in the Q3 of 2014. Their new Winstorm I limbs cost 80SGD (excl shipping) carbon/wood setup. I am currently using the old Winstorm 68" 32#, with W&W Winex riser and have been served quite well. Other than the poundage feeling a lot lighter than the CyBow PowerFull 68" 32#. It felt a lot like my friend's SF Axiom+ 28# and SF Elite 28#.

Just for the record, CyBow PowerFull 32# wasn't nice to use as it just kept bouncing around the riser after the arrow flew out.

Back to topic, I just received the Winstorm II, 68" 32#, from www.alternativess.com and am waiting to try them out over the weekend. They cost about 150SGD (excl shipping of about 20USD). Carbon/foam setup. The only 2 reasons I got them were because they were cheap. And Coach mentioned that they're made in the same factory as SF limbs, just branded differently.

**update!**
Finally managed to shoot the new limbs with my old string. I'm quite bad at feeling the difference between limbs, so I'll quote what my friends said.

"It's very smooth to draw!" - compare with SF Axiom+
"Very smooth draw!" - another experienced archer

And after trying the axiom+, I have to admit, it is quite nice to use.
Draw weight throughout the draw feels even and does not suddenly increase, even with 'overdraw'. Each shot feels firm

Considering its price (S$180 incl' shipping), material (carbon/foam), its performance (smooth and firm, I feel that it is a good buy. Just so you know, only using it as an intermediate limb. Hoping to change to 36# end of the year.

Compared To
The SF Elite, I've only used a friend's personal SF Elite on his HOYT GMX, and I can say it felt kinda similar. In terms of the smooth draw and firm release. Not too sure about what is inside each limb though, KAP just calls it foam, while SF calls it Hight Foam?
The Elite costs S$270 from local retailers in Singapore.

-Add Aug, 2015-
Reflecting on the the feel of both the limbs (SF-E and KAP WS2), I have a slight inclination to say that the SF-E feels more firm. Maybe it's my tuning, or maybe I'm wrong.
-End of addition-

After two months of use
Tuning: After installing the limbs, following my Coach's recommendations (brace height 22.6cm, tiller height difference 0.6cm) for 68" bow, each release had a huge "bang" and it just doesn't sound good.
A friend told me that W&W recommended tiller height difference was 0.3cm. Since KAP and SF are by W&W, he told me why not try it out? I did. It was sooooo silent with a good 'woosh' now instead.

Creeking: Now this is what worries me most. When I first put the limbs on, and drew it a few times, there were creeking sounds where the limbs met the riser. Well, Coach said it's fine, so I continued using it. Guess it was like a 'run-in period' for the limbs. After shooting for 4 hours, the creek was gone.
Now, Coach advised me to turn in the tiller boards. New they're quite deep in, about 3 rounds before it touches bottom. And the limbs start creeking again :/
And it seems like its creeking from middle of the limb, not the attachment. Ohdear. Time to go to Coach again.
For the record, before turning in, the poundage gauge measured 32# draw weight. After turning the knobs in, it measured 36.4#.
-25Nov, 2015-
No more creeking in the limbs, but the bottom limb is rattling in the limb pocket

Limbs appearance:
1, little dots start appearing on the top of the limb where the limb is attached to the riser. I feel it's just cosmetics.
2. There are 2 bulges at the middle of the bottom limb facing me. I hope it's not the limbs delaminating. Will research to see what it is.
The cosmetic defects are due to the humidity in Singapore and is a common sight. So it's not because of the limbs, but because of the weather. Keep the equipment dry and store it dry!

Pictures when I'm free.

Third month of use
Well over run-in period. The limbs have been giving me consistent shots (sufficiently consistent for an amateur like me).
No more creeking. Very satisfied with the purchase.

Sixth month of use
For some reason, I cant see any of the cosmetic defects anymore. Will try to find it harder next time.
Shot thousands of arrows already, probably more than 2k. Limbs are holding up well. Sounds and feels good too.
Here is my bow setup, haven't taken individual shots of the items.

-Add 16Sep, 2015-
(Refer to the later post about the limbs. It is NOT twisted!!)
Seventh / eighth month of use - refer to the new winstorm II post for a clarification. It's not the limbs' fault
If you're considering getting this pair of limbs, I'd say HOLD IT!
It does seem like my top limb is getting warped (twist). Optimistic as always, I'll think its just bad tuning and alignment. But I have to confirm it and accept if it has really twisted.
2 likely reasons
i) I did not tune and align properly from the start, hence it twisted
ii) It is unable to handle it's own weight. As mentioned above, it is being pulled 36# (measured with the scale) on a limb rated 32#.

If you do want to buy winstorm II, go for a lower poundage (26#?) if you want it to last. If you want to go higher, go for quality-assured limbs like W&W
-end of add-
-Add 17Sep, 2015-
It is official, the top limb has twisted.. Anyone can suggest a good, cheap limb rated 34-36#?
-Add 25Nov, 2015-
So, sent it back to the distributer to check and they said its not warped. When I got it back and started shooting again, it looked fine. Will update when I see more of it
-end of add-

Kindly refer to the second post about this limb

Always believed in maintaining my equipment and keeping them clean

Technical details
Riser: W&W Winex (old model)
Limbs: KAP Winstorm II
Stabiliser: Fivics CEX7
Sight: Shibuya RC Ultima red w fibre optic (just changed, picture not updated)
String: Avalon BCY-X 20 strand
Tiller height difference: 0.3mm

I'm looking forward to a Uukha x0 or x1 next. Let me know how it is please, someone!

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Let me know if this helped!
Feel free to contact me at buzytmj@gmail.com!

First Post, a description

This is like a journal, for information I couldn't find on the net. So anyone, if for some funny reason is trying to find the same thing, hopefully he can find the answer here.

Feel free to contact me at buzytmj@gmail.com!